Chainmail Renaissance
Book tour clothes and clothing as armor
It’s rare that I’m completely flummoxed by an interview question. But last week, I found myself searching for words when someone asked: “What is good style? What is your style?”
Part of what makes the question hard, I think, is that style resists definition almost by design. Every attempt to codify it collapses into aphorism. Elegance is refusal. Less is more. More is more. Style advice is always a little oracular, because style itself operates below the level of language. You know it when you see it. But, still: there I was, a writer, failing to summon the right words.
I’ve been putting more thought into my clothing lately, primarily because the last couple months of my life— going on book tour—necessitated forethought. I was not alone in the consideration. I cannot tell you how many women asked me, in the lead-up to and during my tour: “Do you know what you’re going to wear?”
It’s easy to dismiss this as frivolous. But the answer matters, and therefore so does the question. Women in particular have always understood that appearance is never incidental. Clothing has historically been one of our only available languages. One of the only arenas of legible self-expression and, more pointedly, self-defense.
Clothing, in that sense, is a form of strategy. And therefore, protection.
I’ve noticed more and more designers are taking this idea literally. I recently came across the work of Falconiere, a chainmail fashion label—worn by the likes of Madonna and Chappell Roan—helmed by Juniper Rose. The work takes the materials of defense and turns them into something beautiful.
Rose is not alone. Anyone interested in this translation—clothing as art; armor as ornament—has options.
The trend nicely extends itself into other areas of style—the home, art, beyond.
What I like about this idea is how on the nose it is. Function becomes beauty. Beauty is functional.
All of this to say: I love the art of getting dressed, but also the agency inherent to getting dressed. To dress is to act on the world before the world acts on you. Maybe that’s not a style. But if someone asked me again—“what is your style?”— I think it’s the closest I can get to an answer.
Until next time,
Rachel
P.S. The interview itself—with Aemilia Madden—was an absolute pleasure, and I was thrilled to have the opportunity to think this through. You can read it here on Taeste Buddies. I also adored answering Meighan Grady’s Well Worn: I think it’s Brave series and Amanda Montei’s Mad Woman intake. So many good conversations. Three cheers for this community.
I cried when I read the answer to the question Meighan posed to you, "When you think of someone brave who comes to mind?"